A good traveler has no fixed plans and is not intent on arriving.
A good traveler has no fixed plans and is not intent on arriving.
My third year of cycling through France, this trip started in Orléans, followed the Loire to Nevers, then switched rivers to follow the Allier, went through the Massif Central, down to the Med and then back inland before going over the Pyrenees and to Roses (pronounced RosAs by the way). 1121km not including 50 or 60 not counted along the way.
The second part of the trip, from the Massif to Spain was largely the route I'd done two years ago and had enjoyed so much. I'd started in Orléans largely because the dates that European Bike Express offered allowed me to arrive in Allègre to coincide with the Human Powered Vehicle Festival (VPH) held there every year.
Date of event: 7/8/2011
I'd started a long decent down through woods and it was very, very cold. I'd stopped after a while to put my spare socks on as gloves but it was still chilly; it's alway's worse when descending because there's less effort to keep you warm and there's more chill from the wind as you descend at speed.
It was a very pretty area though, the Parc Naturel du Livradois-Forez. I decided to stop for a bike to eat, biscuits and bread and honey. I'd picked a nice spot with a sunny little glade full of cows.
You can make out just behind the bike seat, a little bundle of garlic, nicely wrapped with dried flowers and herbs that I had been given by the mayor. You can also make out the small solar panel which I was using to try and help with the ongoing charge-the-powermonkey problem.
It seems the cows were hungry too, a couple had come over to have a look at what was going on.
After a few minutes the farmer turned up in his pickup and he spread out feed for the cows who were as enthusiastic eaters as was I.
I wish I'd got a photo of the farmer, grey haired, well built guy with a good face. As usual he seemed in no particular rush so we did the usual: talked about recumbent bikes, travelling, and life.
We left together, him in his pickup, me on the bike but on the narrow road curvy downhill I easily kept pace with him for the few kilometres until he turned off.
It was a good job I was going downhill and motoring since near the bottom a dog spotted me, even though he was a hundred yards away outside the farm that was away from the road, and he gave chase. He came hareing across the fields and down the road, I could see him in my rear-view mirror some 50 yards behind. Doing the usual dog thing: bark bark, I'm going to eat your legs when I catch you bark bark.
Quiet country lanes, green, trees and pointy hills.